Nootka Sound
(July 2001)
The view from our Bligh Island beach.
Rating: SKII-III Distance: 40 NM
Date: July 14-22, 2001
Leader: Pete Schwab Participants: 8
Launch: Monday July 16 Return: Saturday, July 21
Weather: Our weather was extremely favorable. Maybe 50F at night, and 60-70F during the day. A few days of overcast and a few days of sun. No rain. Afternoon breezes or winds usually 10-15 knots but on one day we experienced possibly 15-20 with gusts to 25. The wind was very predictable. It would begin to rise around 11 in the morning and stick around until about 5:00 pm. Mostly seas were just choppy. The exception was a crossing of Ewin Inlet in which seas were 1 1/2 to 2 feet with white caps. In fact, the weather was so mild that we were able to paddle out into the ocean around the point from Friendly Cove. Sea swells were less than a meter.
Trip Narrative:
Nootka Sound. One of the great adventures accessible to Tacoma and Seattle folks, it requires only a single day's drive. We departed Federal Way early on Saturday, driving to the Tsawwassen to Duke Point ferry, and drove north, then west, to arrive in Gold River at the head of Muchalat Inlet. Saturday night we stayed in the motel followed by a really laid back day in Gold River on Sunday. Rested, walked around town, and drove down to check out the MV Uckuck III, the converted mine sweeper that was to drop us off somewhere out in the Sound, and return us to Gold River 6 days later. Sunday night was, again, a motel stay. Our adventure really began early Monday morning.
Monday (Day 1) 3 NM. The Uchuck crew wanted us loaded and ready to go by 7:30 or 8:00 so we arrived around 07:00 to load our kayaks. Each loaded boat was hoisted onto the Uchuck and we departed Gold River at 9:15, sharing the ship with a busload of senior citizens out for the ship's day trip to Friendly Cove. After a couple of stops along Muchalat Inlet the Uchuck turned off her screws in Eliza Passage. One by one, our loaded kayaks, with paddler on board, was placed on a pallet, hoisted over the edge, and gently dropped into the sea. As the sea covered the pallet we simply paddled away...to the cheers of all the 'Seniors' aboard the Uchuck. What a totally cool experience! We pulled away from the Uchuck as it steamed on to Friendly Cove, and began our process of guessing which island we were looking at. Once we gained a fix on our position we headed into Fidalgo Passage, paddling between the Villaverdes Islands and Bligh Island. Crossing over to Bligh we glided passed Verdia Island and on around to Vernaci Island for our first stop. We checked out the camp area, but felt we could do better and moved on to the camp area on a small peninsula on the SW end of Bligh. Paradise! The site was only occupied by one couple. The beach on the east side was gravel, easy to land and launch. Easy to put the boats up at the end of the day. Outhouse up in the woods. There were at least 6 tent sites (without crowding) and a huge kitchen and fire area. We set up camp and polished off the day with a great meal prepared by Martha and Gary and a campfire.
Launching from the Uchuck III in Nootka Sound
Tuesday (Day 2) 9.8 NM. This was to be our "The Lay of the Land Day". Just get out, paddle around, and explore the many small islands and islets in our immediate vicinity. We launched around 10:00 with intentions of making it all the way out to the Pantoja Islands but as we made our way through the passage between Clotchman and Spouter a warm front passage kicked up the seas causing us to change our plans and simply paddle counterclockwise around Spouter Island. We found the campsite on Spouter. Situated on a tiny beach, it appears to be no more than a single tent site. Lovely location but not very useful for a group. After a bite of lunch we headed up Ewin Inlet to it's northern terminus and then back to camp on Bligh. Another beautiful evening. Lots of great food and drink. This time Bill and Sally did the cooking. Lots of fun conversation.
Wednesday (Day 3) 10.7 NM. Wanting to make absolutely sure we got to see Friendly Cove and had enough time to explore and sight-see, and not knowing if we'd have time on Saturday when the Uchuck was to pick us up at Friendly, we decided today was the day. We passed the light tower on the south end of Vernaci and made the 1 mile crossing of Cook Channel without incident, reaching the shore just north of the Saavedra Islands. Our exploration led us to the entrance of Boca del Infierno Bay. The entrance is so narrow that even at slack tide (it was still flooding through the channel) it was difficult to paddle back. Following McKay Passage we visited Nootka, Santa Gertrudis Cove, and finally, Friendly Cove. After landing at Friendly we paid a visit to the Native American family living there and paid them their $5 day use fee (overnight camping is $15). There's a church to see, beautiful views of the Pacific just across the hill, and a Coast Guard station that affords incredible views of the Sound. Only a single totem pole remains. It has fallen and is laying in the grass looking as forgotten as the culture that created it. The Uchuck docked while we were visiting and we took advantage of that to get 10 liters of fresh water off the ship. On the return trip we stayed along the Saavedras out in Cook Channel, then crossed back to camp. The evening meal was, as always, incredible, with Merv and Joanne doing the honors. We were beginning to think we might all be gaining weight on this trip.
The Uchuck III in port at Friendly Cove
Thursday (Day 4) 2 NM. A day off for most of us. Caught a 4' dogfish from the shore on 10 lb. test. Sorry no edibles. Part of our crew got out for a few hours to tour the shoreline, check out the seals and eagles...and what a discovery they made! They found a small floating house with a water supply for kayakers (see Friday for details). Generally a very pleasant, relaxing day followed by yet another journey into decadence at the evening meal, this time prepared by Rhonda (with Pete in tow)!
Update 2005: The water supply is back in operation!!. I've just heard from Peter Booth who owns a part interest in the cabin and he assures me that the water is running! Kayakers are welcome to "get water or just stop by for a visit and a cup of tea or coffee." In addition, if you are interested in renting the cabin you can reach Peter at booth4@oberon.ark.com. You can also check out his web site that is catering, more and more, to the kayak crowd at: www.sunkissedcharters.com
Site of the water source just
0.84 NM from the Bligh Island campsite (see the chart for location)
Friday (Day 5) 10 NM.
Friday was to be our visit to Resolution Cove where Capt. Cook first landed in
B.C. After launching we paddled 0.85 NM to the site of the water
source. The small floating house belongs to Sunkissed
Charters. To obtain water you just paddle up next to the house and,
remaining in your kayak, fill your water bladders using the hose at the end of
the water filter. What a really marvelous resource!
After filling up with water we headed for Ewin Inlet. Unfortunately, while
crossing Ewin we encountered 15 knot winds with probable gusts to 20 or 25 and
seas 1 1/2 to 2 feet. We made the crossing easily but knowing that, if we
went all the way to Resolution, by the time we headed back the wind would be against
the tide and seas would likely be worse. We headed north with the
intention of finding a safe place to cross Ewin. And then, no sooner had
we turned around, than we heard a huge blow and a splash...Humpback Whale!
As it turned out we followed the whale all the way up to the end of Ewin where
we lost track of it. For lunch we landed at the extreme NW end of Ewin on
a pretty nice beach and made a couple of discoveries. There's another
campsite there by the water. Up under the trees and good for about 3-4
tents...a very sheltered area. Then Merv made a unique discovery.
Someone had carved a sign saying "Ola, Bill and Sally". Low and
behold Bill and Sally, who were with us, knew of a boating friend of theirs who
was supposed to be in the area. He had apparently carved the sign and left
it for us to find! It could have been anywhere in the Sound! We
could have had lunch and never noticed it! Totally amazing. Trip
back to the camp was uneventful. A great meal again (a potluck
extravaganza!), and, just as the sun
was setting some 13 kayakers showed up. We'd had the place to ourselves
all week but now, the invasion. What better timing?
Saturday (Day 6) 4.5 NM. Our final day and time to head for Friendly Cove to meet the Uchuck for the ride back to Gold River. Up at six, launched at nine, and had a nice smooth crossing of Cook Channel. Paddled on to the Cove arriving rather early and just hung out and waited for the Uchuck. We loaded on the ship the same way we'd left. They lower a pallet into the water, you paddle on, they hoist you onto the ship. Back in Gold River there were scores of folks and vehicles at the Ridgeview Motel. A TV movie crew had moved in with all their vans and support equipment. They'd all signed "Secrecy" documents and, so, would not tell us anything about what they were filming. We did glean this much info. The film was for Warner TV and associated with a group called "No Boundaries". We figured they were filming some sort of "Reality TV" program. We also heard that, whatever the show, it is to air in January. Spent the night at the Ridgeview and, on Sunday, drove home arriving at around 6:30.
Oyster roasts are always a
favorite
Lessons Learned:
1. We used straps
made of one inch webbing and PVC handles to carry the boats when loaded.
It requires 4 people but is safe and not likely to hurt the boat or the carrier.
(see the Gulf Islands
trip for details).
2. Food hanging accomplished with 6 mm line x 18' with a snap hook on a
figure 8 knot worked well. Another good variation is a 2:1 or 3:1 pulley
system.
3. Drysuits could be useful in Nootka if you have the space to carry them.
4. Firestarters make life easy (yah, I know, it's cheating!).
5. A hatchet or backpacking saw would come in handy in camp.
6. The dish cleaning water (sea water) was treated with a squirt of Clorox
to help sterilize the dishes.
7. If you're going to carry a two burner propane stove...we used 6
canisters of propane to support 8 people over 6 days. Never even lit the
small backpacking stoves.
8. Water. We estimate that we used 3/4 of a gallon of water per
person per day. Read more about the fantastic water source in the trip
"description".
9. Those who bathed (everyone but me) loved their "Sunshowers".
Campsites:
We visited at least 5 campsites on Bligh Island or in the Spanish Pilot Group. For the chart location of the sites listed here just click here for a printable chart. The location of the water replenishment site is also on the chart.
Site #1:
Site #1 is located on Bligh Island right across from Vernaci Island and is where
we spent the entire week. It's absolutely perfect! You can pitch about 6
tents in almost complete privacy and there is a huge area for use as a
kitchen/campfire area. There is beach access on both sides of the campsite
but the east side is by far the best. An outhouse is up in the woods and
is not all that bad. Please help keep it clean. The beach is sheltered by a
small island.
Site #2: Site #2 is located on the southeast side Vernaci Island
and is sheltered behind a small island. It looked good enough for about
3-4 tents with a communal gathering/cooking/campfire area. Up under the
trees, it's a rather dark place. Hence, we opted to check out the site on
Bligh.
Site #3: Site #3 is located on the northeast side of Spouter Island
in an inlet that actually puts it between Spouter and another small
island. The water is beautiful, there's a tiny beach but only space for 1
tent, right on the beach. A nice lunch stop but useless for a group camp.
Site #4: Site #4 is located in a large inlet on Bligh island just
north of Spouter Island. It's just around the corner from the water
source. There's space in here for about 30 tents! All up under the
trees and kinda dark but if you can't get into site #1 this place has tremendous
potential. Beach access is fine for a group of 8. You'd
probably want to haul the boats up under the trees at night to escape high
tides.
Site #5: Site #5 is on Bligh Island at the northwest end of Ewin
Inlet. Space for at least 3 or 4 tents and an adequate beach. This
is a very protected and lovely spot that we discovered accidentally when we
stopped there for lunch.
Great Recipes From the Trip
and Other Food Ideas:
1. Hard Cheeses were
one of our favorite snacks. They hold up just fine up here for a week.
2. Canned Oysters and Mussels were great.
3. Fresh fruit and vegetables lasted all week with no problem.
4. If you harvest oysters you'll need garlic in a powdered garlic shaker,
a heavy glove to hold on to the oysters, and an oyster knife to open the little
buggers with.
5. Cliff Bars. The new Java Chocolate are really good!
MEAL #1
Here's the complete recipe for one dinner for 8 hungry paddlers. It
includes appetizers, a salad, and a curry entree
Appetizers:
2 cans smoked oysters, 1 bag LePain Grille Mini Toast, 1 jar cheese spread.
Ingredients for the Salad and
the Entree:
1 head
cabbage
1/2 salad 1/2 entree
1 red
onion
1/2 salad 1/2 entree
1 Walla Walla
onion
1/2 salad 1/2 entree
6 Green
Onions
1/2 salad 1/2 entree
1
cucumber
salad
1 bag small
carrots
1/2 salad 1/2 entree
6 stalks
celery
1/2 salad 1/2 entree
1 red bell
pepper
1/2 salad 1/2 entree
2 green bell
pepper
1 salad 1 entree
2
tomatoes
salad
1 1/2 boxes of S & B Curry
Mix
entree
1 box brown
rice
entree
The Salad:
Use the ingredients listed above and use Bernstein's Creamy Roasted Garlic
dressing. Also add
parsley, garlic salt, pepper, salad elegance, paprika, and chives.
The Entree: "In
a Thai'd Spot"!! A
curried veggie dish! Use
the veggies above, 1 1/2 boxes of S&B Curry
mix. Cook the rice first and while cooking start the appetizers.
Then cut of the veggies. Fix the
salad before doing the curry dish. The curry dish will only take 10
minutes.
Tides/Currents:
1. We
experienced extreme lows ,-1.1 feet, rising to 12.6 feet. We did not have
to plan around the tides. Paddling against the ebb or flood was simply not
a problem.
2. Muchalat Inlet. We avoided having 13 NM of Muchalat Inlet on each
end of our trip by using the Uchuck. Good planning! Muchalat
Inlet was definitely the roughest water we saw on our trip and there are very,
very few places to land. Just lots of fetch and a wind that builds until
you reach Gold River. Out in the Sound, life's a lot more pleasant.
3. Each day the wind came up about 11 am and didn't begin subsiding until
around 5 pm. It might be a good choice to get up early and take advantage
of the pristine seas in the morning. Save the afternoons for laying around
camp.
Charts:
CHS Chart 3675 - Nootka Sound
Coast Recreation Map - Nootka Sound. Produced and distributed by Costal Waters Recreation, Suite 547, 185-911 Yates St., Victoria BC V8V 4Y9 Canada. Picked one up at Pacific Water Sports. Shows location of camp areas etc., great overview map for planning.
Directions to Launch Site: From I-5 at Hwy 18 to Gold River took us 11 hours and 15 minutes (340 driving miles). We left at 05:45 and drove north on I-5 for 140 miles to Blaine and arrived at Customs at 08:00. Border wait was only a minute. Then followed Hwy 99 to Hwy 17 where we turned towards the Tsawwassen ferry. 27 miles from border to ferry. Arrived at the ferry at 08:45. Ferry left Tsawwassen at 10:15 and arrived at Duke Point at 12:15. We departed Duke Point (Nanaimo) at 12:25 and drove 106 miles to Campbell River, arriving at 3:15.. However, we took the scenic route 19A instead of the quicker route, Hwy 19, and stopped for about 15 minutes in Campbell River. As you're coming in to Campbell River (before you actually get into the town) you'll see a sign indicating "Gold River". That's the one to take. It keeps you from driving through town. (if you DO drive through town on the Island Hwy....at the north end of town just keep going straight on Hwy 28..the Hwy to Port Hardy turns off to the right). From there it's 67 miles to Gold River (Hwy 28). We arrived at 5:00 pm. The road between Campbell River and Gold River is 2 lane and a very good road.
Note: On the way home we took Hwy 19 instead of the scenic route and it took 3 1/2 hours to get from Gold River to Duke Point, including a gas and potty stop. Total time from Gold River to Federal Way was 10 1/2 hours.
What's all this going to cost you in U.S. dollars?
Ferries: We caught the Tsawwassen to Duke Point ferry out and back and used the new reservation system to assure our place. To reserve your place on the ferry go to: http://www.bcferries.bc.ca/
The following have been updated as of July, 2005.
The Uchuck III:
135 foot cargo vessel will float you to your
destination, and back from the town of Gold River.
Nootka Sound Service, Ltd, in Gold River (250) 283-2325 or (250) 283-2515.
For an interesting discourse on the Uchuck III go to the following website:
http://www.mvuchuck.com/
The Uchuck cost us per person: Each
single kayak and person $100 round trip ( Canadian). A double plus it's two
occupants was around $80.
The Uchuck doesn't sail on Sundays so we waited for the Monday departure.
We were required to be at the ship by 07:30 for loading in preparation for a
09:00 departure, but actually arrived at 07:00 to have time to load the boats
which are hoisted onto the ship, loaded. The ship dropped us off on the
northwest side of Bligh Island in Eliza Passage just north of the Villaverde
Islands (in 2005 they dropped us off at San Carlos just outside Muchalat Inlet). They drop you by putting your boat on a pallet, with you inside
the boat. The pallet is then hoisted over the side and lowered into the
sea. The following Saturday we had to be at Friendly
Cove by 1:00 for a 3:30 departure and arrive back in Gold River at around 5:30.
In Friendly Cove we loaded the same way we landed. The Uchuck dropped it's
pallet into the water, we paddled on, and were then hoisted up onto the deck.
Parking: There is free parking along
the road (get there early) down near the dock. No guarantees but the guy I
talked to at the Uchuck says he hasn't heard of a single problem of vehicles
being molested in the 7+ years he has worked there. We encountered no
problems leaving our cars there.
NOTE:
As of July, 2005 the parking area has been sold to
the town of Gold River...no one knows if parking fees will go into effect in the
future so you'll want to check with the Uchuck folks when you're making your
reservations for the boat.
Accommodations in Gold River:
The Ridgeview Motel. 295 Donner Court, Gold River, B.C. VOP 1GO. (250) 283-2277. The next door "Neighbourhood Pub" is a good choice for dinner. We paid $89 ($59 US) per couple/per night. The folks there are really pleasant and accommodating. When you come into Gold River on Hwy 28 you'll come to the intersection of Scout Lake Road. Turn right, drive 100 yards and turn right again on Donner Court.
If you turn left on Scout Lake Road you're headed for everything else. The shopping areas, the liquor store, the T-Hawk restaurant, and 15 minutes down the road...the Uchuck.
Additional Websites:
http://www.crittercove.com/
Critter Cove Marina.
http://www.rversonline.org/RV4a.html
Discovering Nootka Sound
Facilities In Gold River:
Groceries: There is
a supermarket (Super-Value) that carries most stuff but may be a little short on
meat. They are open 9:00 am til 8:00 pm, seven days a week.
Liquor Store: Closed on Sunday. Open 10:30 am til 6:00
pm Monday through Saturday. Located in the shopping center along Scout Lake
Road.
Fishing Licenses: The Tackle shop was open on Saturday and Sunday.
Located on Scout Lake Road.
Dinner: We ate at the "Ridge" restaurant next to the motel.
Kind of a sports bar. Food was good and prices reasonable. The folks
were friendly.
The T-Hawk Restaurant: Take Scout Lake Road towards the Uchuck.
Down the hill and across the yellow bridge, on your left. Small place.
May be your best bet for breakfast. Also has a camp store.
Sample Magazine Submittal: Nootka Sound Extended Trip (SKII-III). Join us for 6 days plying the waters of Nootka Sound on Vancouver Island's west coast. We'll camp near the site where Captain Cook first landed in British Columbia and spend the week paddling, exploring, eating great food, and maybe even get in a little fishing.
References:
Ince, John., and Kottner, Hedi. Sea Kayaking
Canada's West Coast. The Mountaineers. Seattle. 1982. pp. 172-177.
Harbord, Heather. Nootka Sound and the Surrounding Waters of Maquinna. Heritage House. 1939.
