Rating: SK-III                            

Distance: ~52 NM

Date: July 15-22, 2000

Leader: Pete Schwab Participants: 8

Launch: July 16 am. Return: July 21 pm.

Weather: Over the 6 days on the water we experienced one cloudy morning. The rest of the time it was clear and probably around 75F. Some breezes now and then generated just enough wave action to keep it interesting. Zero rain. Nights were in the high 50’s.

Description:

Six easy days on mostly calm seas, under clear skies, and we saw almost the entire Desolation Sound Marine Park and the Copeland Islands Marine Park. What a spot. Warnings about population density in the Sound in mid July proved only partly true. We camped in the places of our choice and were never disturbed (nor did we disturb) by other campers. Plenty of sail and motor boats around, mostly moored quietly in coves, and just a few to provide wakes for us to play in.

Day 1: 11NM. Launching from Okeover (Oak-over) under clear skies we followed the ebb through Okeover Inlet and into Malaspina Inlet, first passing the Cochrane Islands and then Thorpe, Josephine, and Beulah Islands. Mostly the islands are small and rocky but they do afford spots for landing. We chose to round the point and paddle into Galley Cove where we stopped for lunch at the camp area at the south end of the cove. After a nice lunch break we crossed over to Mink Island and followed it’s shore on to the Curme Islands. For our campsite we chose the northernmost Curme island. It’s the one that overlooks Homfray Channel. Actually it’s three (or was it four?) islands with inlets on several sides. We entered on the Homfray side and then landed in a tiny channel (dry at low tide) on our right. After hauling the boats up the rocks above the high tide line we had no trouble finding adequate space for our 4 tents (two overlooked the channel) and even had a large cook and campfire area. The place is absolute paradise! We stayed for 3 nights. Don’t miss this spot.

The lagoon below the Curme Islands Campsite

Day 2: 6NM. A really laid back day. Took a short day trip over to Tenedos Bay. On the way we passed Ray Rock and found it covered with seals. We approached quietly but they didn’t like us being so close and began sliding into the water so we backed off and continued into Tenedos. The camp area is at the back of the bay and there’s a good beach to land on. Of note: There’s an outhouse there and it’s actually pretty nice and odor free! We hiked about 1/8 mile back to Lake Unwin where some of the folks took a swim and others looked for photographic opportunities. The stream leading from the lake into Tenedos Bay is an excellent spot to get water. We filled up with several gallons of filtered water and headed back to the Curmes, circumnavigating Otter Island on the way. There’s really good shelter behind Otter. A few pleasure craft were anchored there. Back in the Curmes bathing and cleaning was in order. The water is really nice. Probably around 60F and nice and clear. Snorkeling and fishing were the order for the rest of the day. A few small fish were caught but nothing worth keeping.

Day 3: 9NM. Bill went out fishing at 5 am and surprised us with a 10 pound lingcod! Lingcod fajitas for breakfast!! Clear skies again with breezes 10-15 knots. We took off for a day trip to see Prideaux Haven at the northeastern reaches of the marine park. The breezes provided some following seas on the way and some into the current waves 1 –1 ½ feet on the way back. We stuck to the shore and played in the clapotis most of the way. In Prideaux we visited Melanie Cove (they have an outhouse) and Laura Cove. Paddled along Scobell Island and stopped for lunch on a pretty rock outcrop on Eveleigh Island where a nice little beach afforded a good landing. On the way back we tucked in behind Otter Island for a little break from the seas, and then crossed over to the Curmes for baths, great food, and plenty of wine (and etc.). More fishing produced endless undersized rock fish. We found that you can wave them at Eagles, set them down on a rock, and the eagle will come by and pick them up.

Day 4: 12NM. Paradise lost! As a group we had decided to visit the Copeland Islands Marine Park in the Strait of Georgia just off the mainland near Lund so we broke camp, loaded up and paddled along the northwest side of Mink Island. But all is not paddling! We crossed Homfray Channel and headed for the Martin Islands, rounded the southern end of West Redonda Island and entered Refuge Cove. They have a nice little marina, bake shop, and gift store. Good place to get a latte, mocha, or ‘sticky buns’! You can also replenish fishing gear here. By the time we left the cove the wind had picked up to probably 10-15 knots. Waves didn’t exceed 1 ½ feet on the crossing to the Malaspina Peninsula but we tucked in between Station and Kinghorn Islands to take a little break anyway. After the crossing we rounded Sara Point and headed into the first little bay for a lunch break. Heading past Bliss Landing we entered the Copeland Islands Marine Park. It’s a beautiful place consisting of about a 2 ½ to 3 mile stretch of islands of all sizes. Three of the islands towards the south provide camping and each has an outhouse. With a certain amount of indecision about these campsites (who was already in them; how did the landing area look) we wound up camping on the southernmost island. The landing site was a real nice beach. No boulders to crawl over. The camping was adequate but we had to split the group up. 2 sites overlooked Thulin Passage and the other two overlooked the strait. Another evening of great food and drink. Some of the folks hiked to the top of the island to watch the sunset. Later we were surprised by a showing of the Northern Lights. A nice end to a long day.

Day 5: 3 NM. A late wake up under clear skies (again) and light breezes. We paddled over to Lund to check the place out. There’s a marina, bake shop, store, and newly refurbished hotel. The store had just obtained their liquor license the day before and they had beer, but the wine was not to arrive until later that day! Ok. So we made do with the beer. Replenished our water supply and attempted to get rid of the trash we had accumulated thus far. That’s a real problem up on the Malaspina Peninsula. Since there’s no public trash pick up all of the dumpsters are locked!! We had to pay the hotel $5 to take our 2 bags of trash. Back to our island for a lunch of bagels, cheese, canned meat, and beer. We harvested oysters down at the beach and roasted them at supper. Add butter and garlic and you’ve got a real feast! Later that evening we experimented with stirring the waters with boat and paddle and witnessed a fantastic display of bioluminescence.

Day 6: 11NM. Our last day. More clear skies, light breezes, and temperatures around 75F. We got an early start and paddled up to Sarah Point for a short break, then round the point and back into Malaspina Inlet where we lunched at the campsite at the south end of the Cochrane Islands. Continuing along the Coode Peninsula we tucked into Penrose Bay and landed at Okeover Marina to retrieve our cars. On the way into Powell River, headed for the motel, we decided to pick up some beer. Now, if you haven’t been up here before, you should understand that alcoholic beverages are, for the most part, only sold at the Provincially run store. And they close at about 6 pm!!! Plan accordingly. Back to the motel for nice hot showers, beer, and supper in Powell River. After supper we wandered down to the ferry terminal and finished off our trip watching a whale swim by under an extraordinary sunset. As dark approached, a small fishing vessel came from the north riding on a blue sea of bioluminescence. What a marvelous way to end a trip.

1. The Good Stuff:

• We had a nice, thin Coleman 2 burner stove supported by 3 propane containers and a flat griddle that covered the stove surface. Great for cooking all sorts of stuff. Stored neatly on the deck.
• Water – 2 ½ gallon containers should work best – support with 2 filter pumps.
• We had Motorola ‘Talk-Abouts’. These FRS radios were a real help (and sometimes entertaining) both in the caravan to and from Powell River and on trips in the kayaks. Also useful to keep track of folks who are off doing things on their own.
• Small tripod chairs available at REI worked really well.
• Strong net bags were useful. Use for oyster harvest or add rocks and use as an anchor.
• Food: We shared meals. Each night one couple was responsible for supper and it worked beautifully. Should work well for breakfast as well. Plan ahead so everyone knows what’s being prepared, that all can eat it, and that there are no duplications. Might also have each couple share and print up recipes.
• Avocados traveled well.
• Stuff like Mayonnaise in the little packets (no refrigeration needed) were great to have along.
• Happy Hour. Package everything (wine or whatever) in Pepsi bottles so you can crush or burn them as opposed to carrying them around all week. Wine in bladders works well and can also be applied to water supplies.
• Open toed (like TEVA) sandals worked well in camp.
• Bring lots of folded aluminum foil and paper towels.
• Freezer zip-lock bags work better than the ‘sandwich’ type – but don’t put powdered substances in them, they’ll gum up on you.
• Extra bungees to hook stuff on deck could be useful. Parachute chord may be a better alternative.
• We all loved having a real coffee percolator along – support it with a small backpacking stove.
• Spray butter is great stuff. Use for the oyster roast.
• Bernstein’s "Cheese Fantastico" salad dresssing was fabulous!
• Packaged fruit juices went well – no refrigeration.
• Snack-Pack puddings.
• Canned deviled ham, tuna, salmon, chicken, roast beef, or corned beef. Stuff ‘em in pita bread for a nice lunch.
• Lots of tortilla shells for fish tacos.
• The white "Sequel" hats with a nape cover provide good protection. You can find them in "Roadrunner Sports" magazine.

2. The Things that could have gone better:

• Plan your food carefully, we had way too much!
• Carefully plan extra clothes – most of us had too many. Try to find multiple purpose garments. Don’t cut too short either. If a shirt gets wet, you’ll need a second to wear. But you certainly don’t need three.

1. The tidal exchange in Desolation Sound can reach 18', plan accordingly!
2. In Malaspina Inlet currents reach 2 to 4 knots at the entrance but are much weaker inside the inlet.
3. Homfray Channel: Currents to 1.5 knots, flooding south in most of the channel except in the south portion where the flood moves north.
4. Desolation Sound has a lot of tide and current stations, but, they are all in the north part of the sound where life is really wild (whirlpools, standing waves, 12 knot currents).
5. In the Malaspina Inlet/Homfray Channel area you can use tide data for "Powell River". To obtain this data go to: http://tbone.biol.sc.edu/tide/sitesel.html. Then click on "Alphabetical List of All Tidal Height Sites / Powell River (Straight of Georgia) British Columbia. The site allows you to plug in any dates you want and gives you the times and heights of high and low tides.
6. On our trip, beginning with a full moon, we found the tides and currents to be pretty mild. We could have traveled pretty much anywhere at any time without much concern for current direction. Homfray Channel does, however, present a long fetch and certainly warrants paying close attention to the weather.

Charts:

Chart #3559. Malaspina Inlet, Okeover Inlet and Lancelot Inlet (1:12,000)(Metric).

Chart #3555. Plan of Prideaux Haven (1:6000).

Coast Recreation Map - Desolation Sound. Produced and distributed by Costal Waters Recreation, Suite 547, 185-911 Yates St., Victoria BC V8V 4Y9 Canada. Picked one up at Pacific Water Sports. Shows location of camp areas etc., great overview map for planning.

Want to Know how much this trip is REALLY GUNNA COST YA?  Check out this cool currency converter:

BC Parks Powell River Area Supervisor (Mr. Derrick) - 604-485-3616.

Canadian Search and Rescue: West Coast. RCC (Rescue Coordination Centre) Victoria, B.C.

(250) 363-2992 or 1-800-567-5111.

Water can be replenished at Lake Unwin but you must filter it. The stream that leads to Tenedos Bay has tiny rapids. This is aerated water and may be the best source.

Black Lake is another source for fresh water and also a good place to take baths (since some privacy is afforded along the northern banks.

Notes:

1. Trash is a real problem up here. They have no trash pick up so certainly they don’t want yours. In Lund we paid the hotel $5 to take a couple of bags of trash off our hands. Otherwise you’ll find all the trash cans and dumpsters (even in Powell River) locked!! So, pack it out, but expect it to be a problem.

From Tacoma to Powell River is 270 miles. Including the ferrys and a 45 minute for road construction it took us 10 hours to get to Powell River. We left Tacoma at around 6:00 am. If we had left at 05:30 we probably could have made it to the 09:30 ferry at Horseshoe Bay.

1. From Tacoma take I-5 about 145 miles. About a 1/2 mile before the Canadian border turn off on hwy 15 (Exit 275). This is the truck route.
2. Follow highway 15 through Cloverdale and on until you get to the Trans-Canada Hwy, Hwy 1 (about 13 miles).
3. Follow Hwy 1 to the west to Horseshoe Bay, about 30 miles. Here's where you catch the Horseshoe Bay-Langdale (Gibson's) ferry.
4. From Langdale take Hwy 101 for 52 miles to Earls Cove and catch the Earls Cove-Saltery Bay ferry.
5. From Saltery Bay stay on 101 for 19.3 miles to Powell River.
6. From Powell River to Okeover on 101, then turn right on Malaspina Drive, ~20 miles. The turn is three miles before you get to Lund.
7. To get to Okeover Arm Marina take Malaspina Drive into and through the Okeover Provincial Park and turn left on a dirt road called Crowther Road (it may be marked "no through road"). Go 2 km and down a steep hill to the Marina.

Ferry Information:

This information is valid from June 29 thru September 4, 2000. See the website for up-to-date info.

There are two ferries you'll have to take: Horseshoe Bay to Langdale (Gibsons) and Earls Cove to Saltery Bay (Sechelt-Powell River).

Schedules: Horseshoe Bay to Langdale is a 40 minute crossing time. Ferries leave Horseshoe Bay every 2 hours beginning at 07:20. Also every 2 hours in the south direction from Langdale but beginning at 06:20. Earls Cove to Saltery Bay is a 50 minute crossing with ships leaving Earls Cove every couple of hours beginning at 06:30 (8:25, 10:20, 12:20, 2:25, 4:25). See the website for latest details.

Fees: You'll need round trip tickets for both ferries. Drivers and passengers are $8 each. Vehicles under 7 feet are $27.75 and over 7 feet are $47.50. So, for a vehicle under 7 feet with a driver and passenger you will need a total of $87.50 or for vehicles over 7 feet, $127.00. These are all in dollars Canadian. Visa, Mastercard, and American Express are accepted.

Facilities:

1. There’s no bathroom at the Marina in Okeover but there are bathrooms in the Provincial Park campground that you pass on the way to the marina.
2. Refuge Cove Marina has a bakery, gift shop, coffee, ice cream, bathrooms etc. Great place to stop and get a little java or whatever suits you.
3. The camp sites in the Copeland Islands have outhouses. The one we experienced was clean and actually had no foul odors.
4. A mile and a half away from the Copelands is Lund. Lund has a newly refurbed hotel, a bakery, and a little grocery store. Beer was available but they had just received their liquor license and the wine hadn’t arrived yet.

Hotels/Motels: If you stay in a hotel or motel at the beginning and end of the trip you'll have a great opportunity for beads, good food and hot showers. We stayed at the Westview Centre Motel in Powell River (604-485-4023). The charge was $68 (Canadian) a night for a room with a queen size bed and the same price for a room with two double beds. The drive from Powell River to Lund or Okeover launch sites is only about eight miles. For a complete list of hotels and motels in Powell River and the surrounding area check out the Powell River Chamber of Commerce web site at

http://www.discoverpowellriver.com/chamber/. Click on the "Business Directory" and then under "Accommodations" click on "Hotels/Motels. Includes prices, location, amenities etc. Prices range from $50-$110 daily for a double.

Okeover Arm Marina: Bev and Pete Federko. C-39 Malaspina Road, Powell River V8A 4Z3. Phone: (604) 483-2243. Chart: 3312, 3538, 3559. Marina Services: Moorage, power, water, public phone, ice, parking (call 3 weeks ahead to reserve parking; about $15 a week). Closest marina to Desolation Sound. Facilities: Grocery store (seasonal), boat rentals. Launching for kayakers, good protected waters, excellent area for scuba divers.

Going to Launch at Lund? If you're going to launch at Lund instead of Okeover You can call the Lund Public Marina at (604)483-4711. They have everything there and can put you in contact with John and Dave's Parking for parking fees. The hotel at Lund has just been completely remodeled and sounds really nice. At this writing there is no phone number available for the hotel. Call the Public Marina. Dining, pub, general store, tackle, marine supplies, kayak rentals, showers, and public phones are all available at Lund.

Desolation Sound Marine Park: http://www.prcn.org/prvb/vbdes.html

Desolation Sound Marine Provincial Park: http://www.elp.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/desolation.htm

Lund: http://www.prcn.org/prvb/lund2.html

British Columbia Ferries: http://www.bcferries.bc.ca/ Includes schedules and fees.

British Columbia Parks: http://www.elp.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/

Okeover Arm Provincial Park: http://www.elp.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/okeover.htm

BC Parks - Garibaldi/Sunshine Coast District: http://www.elp.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/distoff/garidist.htm

BC Parks - Garibaldi/Sunshine Coast District: 604-898-3678, for information on DS Park.

BC Parks Headquarters: 250-387-5002

BC Parks Powell River Area Supervisor (Mr. Derrick) - 604-485-3616.

1. Fishing Policy and Communications Branch: http://www-comm.pac.dfo-mpo.gc.ca/ This site includes the Tidal Waters Fishing Guide, shellfish biotoxin updates, and all the rules and regulations you can imagine.
2. License Fees and Contact Info: http://www.thefishernet.com/canada.htm
3. Note that Desolation Sound is in Fisheries area "15".
4. Fisheries and Oceans Canada (info on all recreational fishing regulations other than salmon:

604-666-2828.

5. An eight day license (Non-Canadian) is $25 plus $3 for a salmon surcharge.

Sample Magazine Submittal: July 15-22, Sat.-Sat.: Desolation Sound Marine Park (SK-III). Distance to be determined 'as we like it'. Six days in the magnificent mountain and sound environment on the British Columbia mainland just east of the Campbell River and a few miles north of Powell River. A relaxed trip with possibly two main campsites on the islands of our choice. We'll day trip from these bases when we're not busy fishing, harvesting oysters and clams, or cooking our gourmet repast. 8 participants maximum.

McGee, Peter. Kayak Routes of the Pacific Northwest. Vancouver/Toronto: Douglas and McIntyre, Greystone Books. 1998. pp. 107-114.

Wolferstan, Bill. Cruising Guide to British Columbia Vol. 2. Desolation Sound and the Discovery Islands. Vancouver/Toronto: Whitecap Books. Fifth Edition 1997. pp. 53-55, 77-97.